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sedan 2001

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Meddelanden - madman

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61
Hårdvara / MB switch problem
« skrivet: juli 09, 2010, 19:45:10 »


Her er gaten din , sjekket denne ?

62
Flippersnack / DemoMan, skillnad på tidigt producerade ex.
« skrivet: juni 22, 2010, 02:02:07 »

Tidlig: , fargen er mer rød rundt inserten, og fargen på et par av inserten er forskjellig


Senere prod:


63
Hårdvara / Multiball problem
« skrivet: juni 06, 2010, 14:19:19 »

64
Hårdvara / Spelet bara dog
« skrivet: maj 30, 2010, 13:59:30 »

CPU Board LED Flash Codes, all revisions.
WPC-S and prior uses a "Dx" designation for its CPU LEDs. WPC-95 uses a "LED20x" designation.

D19/LED201 (blanking): at power-on should be ON for about 3 seconds (1 second on WPC-95), and then turn off and stay off. When D19/LED201 is on, the blanking circuit is disabled (and will not allow any coils to be energized).
D20/LED203 (diagnostic): After D19/LED201 turns off, D20/LED203 should stay flashing permanently while the game is turned on. This indicates the CPU is "running".
D21/LED202 (+5vdc): this LED should ALWAYS be on. It indicates the CPU has +5 volts DC power.
Problem Power-On CPU D20/LED203 (diagnostic) Flash Codes. If D20 does not flash continually, here are the flash codes diagnostics:
blinks ONE time: U6/G11 CPU game ROM bad
blinks TWO times: U8 CMOS RAM chip bad
blinks THREE times: U9 WPC custom chip bad (pre WPC-S), or G10 Security PIC chip bad (WPC-S and later)




WPC-S and Prior Driver Board LEDs, Test Points (TP), and Fuses.
For reference, TP5 is ground.

LED1/TP3: +12 volts DC switch matrix circuit. Should be always ON. If off, check fuse F115. This is often caused by a bad CPU board chip U20 (see the switch matrix section for more details). The AC Power originates at connector J101 pins 4,5 and 6,7. It then goes through fuse F114, bridge BR1, capacitors C6 and C7, LED6/TP8 (18 volts DC), diodes D1 and D2, voltage rectifier Q2, fuse F115, LED1/TP3 (12 volts DC), then to connector J114 pins 1,2. Also, just before diodes D1 and D2, the circuit splits to the LM339 chip U6, and LED2/LED3.
LED4/TP2: +5 volts DC digital circuit. Should be always ON. If off, game will not boot. Check fuse F113 (or bridge BR2 and capacitor C5). Though not likely to fail, there is also a voltage regulator LM323 at Q1, a LM339 chip at U6 ("zero cross"), and two 1N4004 diodes at D3 and D38. The AC Power originates at connector J101 pins 1 and 2. It then goes through fuse F113, bridge BR2, capacitor C5, voltage rectifier Q1, LED4/TP2 (5 volts DC), then to connector J114 pins 3,4. Note after fuse F113, the AC power also continues to diodes D3 and D38, and to LM339 chip U6. Then this "zero cross" power merges back into the +5 volt line before hitting connector J114.
LED5/TP7: +20 volts DC flashlamp circuit. Normally ON. Twilight Zone and later, this LED fades off when the coin door is opened. If off, check coin door and fuse F111 (or bridge BR4 and capacitor C11). The AC Power originates at connector J102 pins 1,2 and 3,4. It then goes through fuse F111, bridge BR4, capacitor C11, LED5/TP7 (20 volts DC), then to connector J107 pins 5,6 (and J106 and J108).
LED6/TP8: +18 volts DC lamp matrix circuit. Normally ON. If off, check fuse F114 (or bridge BR1 and capacitors C6, C7). Though not likely to fail, there is also a voltage regulator LM7812 at Q2, a LM339 chip at U6, and two 1N4004 diodes at D1 and D2. The AC Power originates at connector J101 pins 4,5 and 6,7. It then goes through fuse F114, bridge BR1, capacitors C6 and C7, LED6/TP8 (18 volts DC), diodes D1 and D2, voltage rectifier Q2, fuse F115, LED1/TP3 (12 volts DC), then to connector J114 pins 1,2. Also, just before diodes D1 and D2, the circuit splits to the LM339 chip U6, and LED2/LED3.
LED7/TP1: +12 volts DC power circuit (motors, relays, etc). Should always be ON. If off, check fuse F116 (or bridge BR5 and capacitor C30). The AC Power originates at connector J112 pins 1,2 and 3,5. It then goes through fuse F116, bridge BR5, capacitor C30, LED7/TP1 (12 volts DC), then to connector J118/J117/J116 pin 2.
TP6 (no LED): +50 volts for the coil. The AC Power originates at connector J102 pins 5,6 and 8,9. It then goes through fuse F112, bridge BR3, capacitor C8, TP6 (50-70 volts DC), then fuses F103/F104/F105 (and F102/F102), then to connector J107, J106 J108, and J109.
LED2 (no TP): This LED is not always installed. High/low line voltage sensor. Normally ON, but flickers with the playfield lamps.
LED3 (no TP): This LED is not always installed. High/low line voltage sensor. Normally OFF, but flickers with the playfield lamps.

65
Flippersnack / ballsofsteel.net
« skrivet: maj 25, 2010, 20:12:36 »

66
Har selv vært å sett på spill som skal ha vært i fint skikk, men har vært "dårlig" i mine øyne, så når noen sier fint skikk, så har jeg sluttet å tro på det, desverrre.

Hvis det da ikke er Christian som selger spill =)

68
Flippersnack / Hur tänker STERN?
« skrivet: mars 13, 2010, 12:30:13 »
2:33 morsom  :-D

69
Flippersnack / adonbolagen
« skrivet: februari 28, 2010, 23:42:34 »
790 JD  

:-)

70
Köpes / K: TS plastikk
« skrivet: februari 26, 2010, 00:33:22 »
Citera
Drop target heter A-19552 och finns bland annat på Marcos. Du kommer dock sätta kaffet i halsen när du ser priset... efter du ser fraktkostnaden så kommer du hata Marcos.

edit. Hittade den på BAA till ett MYCKET mer rimligt pris + att deras frakt är rimlig


Hei og takk

Ja Marco er dyr ja,

Bay Area:
Noen som har erfaring med kvaliteten på disse ?

Rune


71
Köpes / K: TS plastikk
« skrivet: februari 25, 2010, 23:54:26 »
Ingen som har en droptarget til shadowen å selge meg,trenger en til miniplayfielden, eller vet hvor jeg kan få tak i en ?



72
Köpes / K: TS plastikk
« skrivet: februari 19, 2010, 10:27:36 »
Holder på å "shoppe" shadowen og det er et par plastikk som jeg trenger. Hadde håpet jeg slapp å kjøpe et komplett sett.

Trenger 2 plastikk som jeg har merket rundt


Og en target på miniplayfielden



Så hvis du har noen av dem å selge send meg en mail med pris, kan betale med paypal.

runer71@gmail.com

73
Hårdvara / Trunkstopp på ToM..
« skrivet: februari 02, 2010, 12:38:32 »

Version 1.4H (Home version)
NOTE: USE OF THIS ROM REVISION REQUIRES THE FOLLOWING GAME HARDWARE:
1) REQUIRED: A "#124" U22 PIC security chip installed on the MPU board.  
2) OPTIONAL: Magic Post (working up-post between flippers) and working Tiger Saw
unit (motorized unit) which are operated by this software revision.  These devices
were originally present on prototype (pre-production) models of Theatre of Magic,
so most games do not have them.


Notes from designer Louis Koziarz:
This is the Theatre of Magic 1.4 Home ROM.  It supports the Magic Post and
Tiger Saw motor on prototype playfields.  There are no adjustments to
control the behavior of these devices.

YOU NEED A #124 PIC TO USE THIS VERSION.

New coil assignments:
---------------------

Coil 19 = Drive to tiger saw EMI board.  Use 12V supply for pin 3 of board.
Coil 23 = Flash drive for Magic Post.
Coil 36 = Solenoid drive for Magic Post (UL Flipper Hold).

1.40H u6.pp = CB14 10/31/96

L. Koziarz

1/6/97: WARNING
---------------
There is a known fatal in Multiball in this version.  It will be fixed
later. Caveat Emptor.

1/13/06: Addendum / History / FAQ
---------------------------------
After finishing Arabian Nights, I was asked by John Popadiuk to restore
the tiger saw and magic post software to Theatre.  Jeff Johnson had left
for Midway after finishing the game, and I had some spare time to do this
favor for John.

1.4H is a home-only ROM release and per the instructions from my managers
at Williams was compiled to require a #124 U22 security chip.  Since very
few of these exist in the wild, I would suggest buying one from ShiftedBits
(http://www.shiftedbit.com).  Their chips are worth the money.

It is *strongly* suggested you use an EMI (electromagetic interference) board
when connecting the tiger saw motor drive directly to the 12 volt bus in
your game.  I make no guarantee what could happen otherwise.  You might
blow a CPU or fry the driver transistor and lose your high-voltage fuse.

The Tiger Saw runs during Tiger Saw mode and Tiger Saw Multiball.  It also
spins briefly when the captive ball is hit.

The Magic Post is an up-down post that sits between the flippers and is
raised when the "Poof" target on the lower right is hit.  Coil 36 raises
the plastic disc between the flippers for a few seconds and has no latch
to hold it in the raised position (unlike the old Bally mechanisms).

You *might* be able to use an "Up/Down Post Assembly" from Stern Pinball
(p/n #500-6293-00) and try to install it in a game, if you are brave enough
to remove the lamp insert in your playfield.  There is also a flash lamp
underneath that illuminates the post when it is up.  The flasher does not
replace the controlled lamp that also shines in this position.

A few important notes:
----------------------

1) The coil notes above reference the coil drive positions used to control
   the various features in the prototype games.  If you can't figure out what
   these notes mean or have little experience in hacking wiring on a
   pinball machine you should seek help before attempting anything on your
   game.  

2) No, I can't go back and add anything else to this program.  I had this
   ROM image (and the notes above) in a ZIP file on an old backup disk.  
   I don't have the source or the means to test any patches to this code.
   This version was also not checked into the main source code library, so
   if some licensor of the Wililams game source code claims they have it,
   they're being untruthful.

3) The multiball crash is rare, but it happens.  I didn't learn about it
   until months later and I was already deep into development on another
   project plus the Magic I tested on was not in my posession anymore.
   I never had a chance to verify if the crash was always there or if the
   code modifications brought the crash into the open.  Things like this
   happen when you're flying blind in someone else's code.  Chalk it up to
   the price you pay for having a prototype game.

4) This ROM was uploaded to ipdb.org in the interest of halting traffic
   in home ROMs as an income source for greedy people.  Anyone that tries to  
   sell this code to you is ripping you off.  

Good Luck,
Louis Koziarz



Version 1.3
       Date: August 9, 1995
U6:    Checksum: 2713 (X - Export)

       The X export version supersedes all A ROMs.

Changes from revision 1.2:

        Correct a bug in the Multiball Lock logic where balls could not
        be locked after video pinball was played.

        The lockup device now behaves better when one of its switches
        is broken.

        Slingshots now disabled at game over.

        Fixed the logic on the outlane proximity switches.  If a switch
        is stuck on, and Hocus Pocus is enabled, the magnet is no
        longer fired.


       Version 1.2
       Date: April 7, 1995
U6:    Checksum: 5112 (A - USA/Canada)
       Checksum: 3012 (X - Export)



74
Köpes / K: ROM 1.0 eller 1.09C till MM
« skrivet: februari 02, 2010, 12:36:26 »
Version 1.09: This version has many changes from the original 1.00 ROM release- these are listed in detail below. The most substantial difference is that this beta release is free play only- it will not take coins for "pay for play". 1.09 was a "beta" version of the software that was never upgraded to an official release before Williams went out of business in 1999.
Version 1.09B: This is the same as 1.09, but allows for both "coin play" and "free play" (not just free-play only).
Version 1.09C: This is the "profanity" ROM version for this game- same as 1.09B, but allows you to get rid of the "bleeps" in the dialogue via the "Family Mode" setting in the game's adjustments. Setting Family Mode to "off" enables the profanity. Setting to "on" disables the profanity. (ie: "I'm Lord Howard Hurtz- who the f*ck are you!?")

75
Köpes / K: ROM 1.0 eller 1.09C till MM
« skrivet: februari 02, 2010, 07:34:29 »
Changes since version 1.0:
Addition: Total points scored for smack-a-troll are now displayed after smack-a-troll finishes.
Addition: A cheer sound effect has been added to the high score display effects during attract mode.
Bug-fix: During the smack-a-troll grace periode, when a troll was hit, the state of the rule in the game's software was not being reset correctly. This has been fixed.
Bug fix: Troll eject combo and lock awards (awarding troll bombs) were being erroneously awarded during multiball mode. This has been fixed.
Bug fix: Multiball madness champion high score title has been altered so that it now displays correctly during attract mode.
Bug fix: A ball being stuck in the tower area would give points/awards during ball search via the tower exit switch. This has been fixed.
Bug fix: Custom message had a bug that would cause some messages to display incorrectly. This has been fixed.
Change: A larger 8mb ROM chip is now required for this software version.
Change: When video mode and smack-a-troll are both qualified to start from the Merlin's Magic hole, video mode now has precedence. (Smack-A-Troll is lit at Merlin's Magic after the third Super Jets mode has started).
Change: The shoot again lamp on the playfield is now lit when an extra ball is awarded during video mode.
Change: Merlin targets scored are now carried over from ball to ball.
Change: The 1 coin buy-in adjustment has been removed from the pricing adjustment menu.
Change: The video mode cow qualification count has been changed from 3 to 2.

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