Klarlacka över Mylar??...går det?

I just pick up some NOS playfields that were clearcoated by Bill Davis. On two of them, the mylar around the popbumpers was never removed and the clearcoat was put on top. This does not seem like the right way to do this. Has anyone put a playfield like this in service? How did it hold up? I have been using a local guy here in St. Louis and frankly, his work is as good as it gets in my opinion. He just dropped off 6 completed playfields today (with mylar removed) and they look awesome. He has over 15 years experience in the automotive painting field. I was never an advocate of clear coating a playfiield but after seeing the difference in the appearance I plan on having all my pins done. Has anyone had any bad experiences with clear coating? Are they durable or does it tend to lift around the larger inserts like are found on ----------------------------------------------------------------- When I stopped in Bill's place a few months back, I saw a nice Whirlwind playfield being clearcoated over the factory mylar. He said it was better to do that, than risk pulling up (anymore of) the insert paint during the mylar removal process. I personally, would prefer to have the mylar removed before clearcoating. But then again, he does clear right over any replacement insert decals (pinheadz.com). Though he bitched (and rightly so) about a banzai run set that the ink was not opaque and could be scratched of by rubbing with your finger. Be sure to tell David Eisner that your set needs to be opaque, die-cut and "laminated" (to resist the sanding process). Send them to Bill along with your playfield, DO NOT apply them prior to!! Let him apply the decals ----------------------------------------------------------------- Clear coating over Mylar is a definate no-no. IMO, Bill Davis dosen't make enough money clearcoating to do the prep work required and probably figures if you don't care enough to do it, why should he (IMHO) Besides if any artwork does come up, he'll just get bitched at and probably dosen't want the liability. While Bill Davis does a nice job and is a hell of a nice guy. I'm also under the impression that many think Bill D. is the only guy that can do it and when he dies pinball restoration will go with it. I have looked at some of his work and while it is a definate improvement over non-cleared PF's. I have a hard time believing that a real perfectionist would find clearing over mylar aceptable. I've also looked at some of his touch-ups closely and found them less than perfect. I'm sure many will disagree and I'm not saying he's not good, but I have seen (IMO) some less than perfect jobs. I agree with your statement that the local auto painter can do just as good a job. The real secret is in the prep and post work, to get that perfect glass like finish. (Scrub, sand, touch-up, clear coat, then, wet sand and buff)